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Why Hangzhou is "Heaven on Earth"
Marco Polo called Hangzhou "the finest and most splendid city in the world." As a local, I can't disagree — West Lake at sunset is pure magic. This is the city of poets, tea masters, and scholars.
Hangzhou is also home to Longjing (Dragon Well) tea — China's most famous green tea. The tea plantations in the hills west of the lake are UNESCO-listed and open to visitors. Plus, it's only 1 hour from Shanghai by high-speed train, making it the perfect day trip or weekend getaway.
Rent a bike and circle West Lake (15km, 2–3 hours). It's the best way to see the scenery. Also: avoid the weekend crowd — weekdays are much more peaceful. And bring cash for tea tastings (many small farms don't take cards).
West Lake (西湖) — The Crown Jewel 🌅
Why It's Special
West Lake is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has inspired Chinese poets and painters for over 1,000 years. The lake is surrounded by hills, pagodas, temples, and gardens. It's free to visit (24/7), and you can easily spend 2 days exploring.
Top Spots Around the Lake
🌅 Su Causeway (苏堤)
A 2.8km tree-lined causeway built by poet Su Dongpo. Best at sunrise — the reflection of the hills in the water is breathtaking. Bike or walk it.
⛩ Leifeng Pagoda (雷峰塔)
Five-story pagoda with panoramic lake views. ¥40 entry. Best at sunset — the golden light on the lake is unforgettable.
🌸 Three Pools Mirroring the Moon
Three stone pagodas in the lake (featured on the ¥1 banknote). Take a boat (¥55) to get up close. Best visited in the evening when lanterns are lit.
🚲 Best way to explore: Rent a bike (¥10–20/day) and circle the lake
💰 Cost: Free (lake access). Boat rides ¥45–80. Pagoda ¥40.
📸 Best photo spot: The causeway at sunrise or sunset
Longjing Tea Plantations (龙井茶园) 🍵
What it is: Longjing ("Dragon Well") is China's most famous green tea, grown in the hills west of West Lake. The plantations are stunning — terraced tea bushes, traditional farmhouses, and misty hills.
Why it's special: You can walk through the plantations, watch tea picking (spring only), and do tastings at family-run farms. It's peaceful, scenic, and delicious.
Local tip: The best area is Meijiawu (梅家坞) — a village surrounded by tea fields. Have lunch at a tea farm (¥60–100 per person, includes tea). Buy tea directly from farmers (¥200–800 per 500g, depending on quality). Avoid the touristy shops near the lake — they're overpriced.
Getting there: Bus #27 or Didi (¥25–35 from the lake). Allow 3–4 hours for a relaxed visit.
Tea Tasting Etiquette
- Don't buy immediately: Taste 3–4 teas before deciding. Good farms encourage this.
- Spring tea (pre-Qingming): The most expensive and prized (¥800–2000/500g). Harvested before April 4th.
- Ask to see the leaves: Real Longjing has flat, yellow-green leaves. If they're dark green and curly, it's fake.
Temples & Cultural Sites
🛕 Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺)
What it is: One of China's oldest and richest Buddhist temples (built 328 AD).
Highlight: The massive Buddha hall and the surrounding Feilai Feng grottoes with 300+ carved Buddhas.
Tickets: ¥75 (includes Feilai Feng). Hours: 7 AM–6 PM.
🌿 Hefang Street (河坊街)
What it is: Historic street with traditional shops, tea houses, and street food.
Highlight: Great for souvenirs (silk, tea, fans) and snacking. Less touristy than Shanghai's equivalent.
Cost: Free to walk. Best time: Evening (lanterns lit).
🏛 Zhejiang Museum
What it is: Excellent museum with local history and art.
Highlight: The lacquerware and celadon porcelain collections.
Tickets: Free (bring passport). Hours: 9 AM–5 PM (closed Mondays).
Food & Drink — Hangzhou Cuisine
Hangzhou cuisine (浙菜 Zhècài) is known for its fresh, delicate flavors — less oily than Sichuan food, less salty than northern Chinese food. Here's what to try.
1. Dongpo Pork (东坡肉)
What it is: Braised pork belly named after poet Su Dongpo. Melts in your mouth.
Where to try: Lou Wai Lou (lakefront, expensive) or local family restaurants.
Price: ¥48–88 per portion ($6.50–12 USD)
2. West Lake Vinegar Fish (西湖醋鱼)
What it is: Fresh fish in a sweet-and-sour vinegar sauce.
Where to try: Zhi Wei Guan (literaly "knows flavor").
Price: ¥68–98 per dish ($9.50–13.50 USD)
3. Longjing Shrimp (龙井虾仁)
What it is: Fresh river shrimp stir-fried with Longjing tea leaves. Delicate and aromatic.
Where to try: Any local Hangzhou restaurant.
Price: ¥58–88 per dish ($8–12 USD)
Getting Around Hangzhou
🚇 Metro (Subway)
Coverage: Limited (2 lines) but covers train station & bus station
Cost: ¥2–6 per ride
Local tip: Not useful for West Lake area — use bus or bike instead.
🚲 Bike Share (Best Option!)
Options: HelloBike, Meituan Bike
Cost: ¥1.5 for 30 mins
Best for: Circling West Lake (15km, 2–3 hrs)
Local tip: Get a padded seat cover (¥10 at any bike shop).
🚌 Bus
Coverage: Extensive, goes everywhere
Cost: ¥2 per ride
Key routes: #7 (to Lingyin Temple), #27 (to tea villages)
Getting to Hangzhou from Shanghai
High-speed train: Shanghai Hongqiao → Hangzhou East. 1 hour, ¥73–123. Trains run every 10–15 minutes.
Best for: Day trip or weekend getaway. Leave Shanghai at 8 AM, be in Hangzhou by 9 AM.
Where to Stay in Hangzhou
Budget (¥150–300/night)
Area: Near the train station or Hefang Street
Options: Hangzhou Mix Hostel, local guesthouses
What to expect: Clean, basic, good location
Mid-Range (¥300–800/night)
Area: West Lake area (walking distance to the lake!)
Options: Atour Hotel, JI Hotel (West Lake branch)
What to expect: Modern rooms, lake views (some)
Luxury (¥800–3000+/night)
Area: West Lake waterfront
Options: Four Seasons Hangzhou, Amanfayun (ultra-luxury!)
What to expect: Resort vibe, tea plantation views, spa